Instructions Gel Sculpting
Please note: These directions are merely aimed at assisting you with the application of the NDLnails Kaufenbillig GmbH products and do in no way replace a professional training. Extensive technical knowledge which exceeds a simple manual is required to apply the professional products on the customer.GEL SCULPTING
With tip and/ or white French tip
Step 1: Disinfection of hands / sterilizer
Use a disinfectant spray to uniformly disinfect the hands. These disinfectant sprays contain a large percentage of alcohol.
Step 2: Removing nail polish or nail polish residues
The nail polish is removed with a cotton pad moist in nail polish remover. All traces of polish have to be removed.
Please note: You can protect your own nail polish by placing the cotton pad on the middle finger between the index finger and the ring finger.
Step 3: Treating the cuticles/ cuticle pusher rosewood stick
The cuticle is pushed back using a cuticle pusher, do not cut. The cuticle pusher is applied to remove the cuticles from the natural nail. Use a cuticle remover if required to remove the cuticles easily. Be careful to push the cuticle back on all sides on the natural nail as the gel might otherwise lift in parts.
Step 4: Removing the shine / mattifying / filing
The surface layer of the nail has a shiny film. For optimal adhesion it is necessary to remove this surface shine. We recommend a 100/180 grit fine file or a buffer (100 grit) to gently remove the natural nail shine, filing in the direction of the nail growth. Caution !!!: Do not file off the entire surface layer of the nail, but only the shine.
Step 5: Removing filing dust / dust brush
Remove the filing dust using a dust brush.
Step 6: Degreasing/Cleansing (Removing the sticky layer / dispersion layer)
The prepared nail is degreased with the Cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad, removing any remaining dirt and dust particles from the nail. Thorough cleansing is essential as the only way to ensuring long-lasting, beautiful artificial nails.
Step 7: Selecting the tips
The tip is chosen according to shape and curve of the natural nail. The tip should have an exact fit on the natural nail, not covering the cuticle on the sides, but rather fitting to the sidewalls exactly. For the perfect fit, the tip should be “tried on”, placing the tip on the natural nail without adhesive. The perfect tip will look like a natural extension of the natural nail.
Please note: Should the size of the natural nail be between two different tip sizes, chose the larger tip and tailor it with a file to fit.
Please note: The tip should never cover more than half of the nail bed. Shorten it with a file if necessary.
Please note: Pre-blend the contact area of the tip before gluing it onto the nail to save time when blending the tip with the natural nail.
Please note: If the curve of the natural nail differs from the tip, cut a small V-shaped incision into the contact area. The tip will be more flexible and easily adjustable to the nail bed.
Step 8: Gluing the pre-tailored tips / adhesive
Hold the tip between the thumb and index finger with the contact area facing downwards. Apply adhesive to the contact area and spread evenly with the glue nozzle. (Apply adhesive amply).
Turn the tip around and hold at an angle of approx. 45 degrees to the nail. Place the tip on the natural nail area without adhesive. Then slide it downwards until it “snaps” into place. Once the tip snaps into position (it is clearly audible and can be felt in the fingers), press the tip to the natural nail lifting it (bottom-up, but do not lift abruptly), fixing it in that position for a few seconds. Be careful to apply the tip slowly so the adhesive spreads evenly to avoid the formation of air bubbles on the contact area between the tip and the natural nail.
Please note: When treating heavily curved nails the tip should have a perfect fit at the front on the nail edge. Overlaying parts can be filed off where needed.
Step 9: Trimming the tips / nail cutter
The tips are trimmed with a nail cutter to the desired length. The professional nail cutter permits cutting the tip in different shapes, saving plenty of filing time. The remaining edges can be filed to fit the desired nail shape.
Step 10: Blending the tip with the natural nail / filing
File the tip on the natural nail to blend the seams on the well area (contact area). Caution !!! Only file the tip, and not the natural nail itself to avoid injuries to the fingernail through excessive filing. Alternatively a tip blender can be applied. Brush the tip blender across the seam line, leave to absorb shortly and finish blending with the file. The tip blender is applied to assist the filing.
Use a 100/130 grit file (buffer) to completely mattify the tip for an enhanced adhesion between the gel and the tip when applying the primer. Roughen all shiny spots on the tip with the file for a matte appearance
Step 11: Removing dust / dust brush
Remove the filing dust with a dust brush.
Step 12: Degreasing / Cleansing (Removing the sticky layer / dispersion layer)
The nail to be treated is degreased with the cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad, removing any remaining dirt and dust particles from the nail. Thorough cleansing is essential as the only way to ensuring long-lasting, beautiful artificial nails.
Step 13: Applying the primer
Apply the primer sparingly to the natural nail. Start on the middle of the natural nail towards the cuticles. The primer is available as liquid with brush or as pen. It flows on the natural nail. Caution !!! The primer is an acid (approx. pH-value 6). Avoid the liquid from running into the cuticle as this might cause an unpleasant burning sensation. Allow the primer to dry naturally (do not dry in the UV curing device). Do not touch the area with the primer with your own fingers (oily !!!)
You can now choose between a sculptured nail with or without white tip. If you prefer a white tip, please continue on step 14, go on to step 16 for an application without white tip.
Step 14: Kaufenbillig French Arktic White UV Gel
For a beautiful white French tip, use the Kaufenbillig French Arktic White.
The French gel is applied on the edge of the tip or the natural nail, either with the brush or preferably with the spot swirl or the angular brush, drawing the smile line at the curving shape of the natural nail. This is called the French tip.
Cure for 2 minutes. The so called dispersion layer (sticky layer) forms on the gel. Do not remove the layer as the foundation layer (step 16) will be applied on top to adhere to.
Step 15: Cure the gel in the light curing device
Apply the French tip individually to each finger. Place the finger in the light curing device for 2 minutes to cure the gel. Most UV curing devices have been pre-set to this time. Trick: Cure every finger for only 10 seconds. Once the French white tip has been applied to all fingers, repeat the curing process for 2 minutes on all fingers simultaneously. (high time factor)
Step 16: Apply the Kaufenbillig 1 Phase Gel
Caution: Keep the gel jars closed during the application. Gel might harden!!!
Apply one thin layer of the Kaufenbillig 1 Phase Gel (priming layer) and cure for 2 minutes, do not cleanse. Apply the 1 Phase Gel to every finger. (build-up layer)
Take the Kaufenbillig 1 Phase Gel with a brush and form a ball, place on the middle of the nail. Sculpture the gel on the nail, first in the direction of the cuticle, then in the direction of the free edge until the whole nail is covered.
Ensure to leave a gap of approx. 0.5 to 1 mm between the cuticle and the gel and do not apply any gel to the cuticles on the side walls or the back. If this occurs, remove immediately with a rosewood stick to keep the specified gap. Cure for 2 minutes.
Please note: Place one hand in the UV curing device whilst treating the other hand. We recommend using two UV curing devices when treating customers to ensure the customer’s comfort and to save time.
Step 17: Removing the perspiration layer with cleaner
Remove the so called perspiration layer, a sticky surface caused by the hardening process, with cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad. Ensure that the perspiration layer is thoroughly removed from the nail.
Step 18: Shaping the nails
During the curing process, gel might run into the sides, giving the nails a slightly unshaped appearance. The nail needs to be filed for its final shape. Be aware that nails grow straight. Do not hold the file in an edged or angled position to avoid filing corners and edges into the customer’s nail, which will destabilize the nail and quickly result in breaking the nail. File the free edges only to refine the nail. The filing movements will determine the nail shape. Do not file the nail randomly from left to right, but instead follow the nail’s natural curve to leave the nail with a very natural look.
Step 19: Correcting the nail length
Considering that every nail is filed individually, prospective nail technicians in particular, keep the nails on slightly different lengths on both hands. Cross the individual fingers of the hand to spot and correct differences immediately.
Step 20: Removing filing dust / dust brush
Remove the filing dust using a dusting brush.
Step 21: Removing the dirt particles with the cleaner
Degrease the prepared nail with the cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad, removing any remaining dirt and dust particles from the nail. Once again, thorough cleansing is essential as the only way to ensuring long-lasting, beautiful artificial nails.
Step 22: Cleansing and grinding (only if you have a nail grinder)
Cleanse the natural nail from underneath using a nail grinder. Be careful not to grind away the entire nail nor to injure the nail bed. Then seal the nail from underneath, applying nail adhesive underneath the nail with a rosewood stick and spread evenly. This does not only increase the durability of the sculptured nail, but further enables the customer to remove any dirt that might accumulate underneath the nails with a nail brush.
Step 23: Removing the dirt particles with the cleaner
Degrease the prepared nail with the cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad, removing any remaining dirt and dust particles from the nail. Thorough cleansing is yet again essential to ensure long-lasting, beautiful artificial nails.
Step 24: Applying gloss / sealing
Apply the Kaufenbillig 1 Phase Gel with the gel brush to seal the sculptured nail in one go from the back to the free nail edge, similar to nail polish. This layer should be applied very thin on the nail. As this gel is self-levelling the nail does not have to be filed.
Step 25: Cure gel in the light curing device
Once the Kaufenbillig 1 Phase Gel has been applied to all nails, the whole hand is placed in the light curing device for 2 minutes.
Step 26: Removing the perspiration layer with cleaner
Remove the so called perspiration layer, a sticky surface caused by the hardening process, with cleaner and a lint-free cotton pad. Ensure that the perspiration layer is thoroughly removed from the nail. Never clean the brush with cleaner, always use a brush cleaner. The gel and brush will otherwise be of no use.
Step 27: Apply a nail polish or sunblocker
The nail polish can be applied as desired. The last gel layer adds a glossy shine to the nails. Apply our UV special sealer (high gloss sealer) to protect the nail surface.
Sunbathers or solarium users should always apply the sunblocker and air-dry. The sunblocker protects against yellowing (UV-rays, such as sun rays or solarium light).
Should the customer want some colour, apply the nail polish first, followed by our sunblocker for a special glossy effect, even with the polish. The sunblocker further ensures high shock resistance and thus long durability and rejoice in beautiful nails.
The nails are refilled with gel after approx. 2-3 weeks.
Step 28: Applying oil and hand massage
The nail sculpting is now complete. Apply nail oil to the nails and the cuticle area in particular, massaging in the oil. The massage can also be performed on the hands as a relaxing way to complete the application.
E-mail: NDLnail@t-online.de
Online shop: www.kaufenbillig.de Extensive product range / interesting price breaks
